september
2005
London-born Bella Freud launched her eponymous womenswear label in 1990.
She had previously studied fashion in Rome, and on her return to the UK she
launched her first collection, setting a style that has marked out her work
since. The provocatively feminine look for which she is renowned started with
this collection, in which she used the formality of tailoring and restricted
sexiness.
After living and studying in Rome for two years she presented her first collection
of tailored knitwear in bookish colours with kinky white collar and cuff and
mini hemlines. Using the formality of tailoring and the restricted sexiness
of the Edwardian silhouette, Bella Freud translated these elements into knitwear
and created the first of the provocatively feminine looks for which she has
become renowned.
In the 10 years since she founded her label her individual style of immaculately
crafted tailoring and subtle but definite silhouette has become her signature
– the tongue in cheek intellectual. Her idiosyncratic English attitude
is influenced by enigmatic style queens in the European tradition and this,
combined with her good eye for colour and colour mixes have made Bella Freud
the popular designer she is today. She is also fond of using traditional fabrics,
including tweed which she has woven to her own design in Scotland.
In 1999 Bella decided to depart from the traditional catwalk formula and collaborated
with the actor and director John Malkovich in two short videos: Strap Hanging
which showcased the A/W 99 collection in the form of a bizarre series of events
set on a train, and Lady Behave which takes place in an etiquette school.
For A/W 2000 she collaborated with the legendary rock icon Anita Pallenberg
to produce a limited edition magazine that follows the story of cult 60’s
film Performance, and includes an interview with Anita by John Malkovich as
well as a CD single by Patti Palladin. This magazine was launched in May 2000
at the prestigious Fig. 1 gallery in London’s Soho and was supported
by Kangol for whom she also acts as a design consultant. For Spring 2001,
while on maternity leave, Bella produced a small collection of t-shirt prints
while preparing for her first child. Bella worked with respected British brand
Jaeger producing a capsule collection, and also collaborated with John Malkovich
on a third film project, ‘Hideous Man’ which premiered at the
Thaddeus Ropac Gallery in Paris in July 2002 and in London’s Westbourne
Studios on August 1st 2002.
Taking time out from these major projects, Bella is currently focussing on
knitwear, producing beautiful collections of sweaters in limited numbers each
season. For Autumn/ Winter 2005 Bella’s knitwear range has expanded
to include menswear for the first time ever with a capsule collection of four
sweater designs for men.
Meanwhile Bella is still working with miss Selfridges as a consultant and
in her spare time designing one off pieces for special clients, including
a series of suits for the inimitable Nick Cave to wear on stage.
Celebrity clients include: Madonna, Kate Moss, Courtney Love, Saffron Burrows,
Marianne Faithful, Jerry Hall, Anita Pallenberg, Lucy Ferry, Chloe Sevigny,
Jasmine Guinness, and Jane Birkin amongst others.
Bella Freud is the daughter of the artist Lucian Freud and the great grand
daughter of Sigmund Freud.